Beyond Scent

Yosh Han, Amniens nose and industry pioneer shares her unique insight 

The word trailblazer may be overused, but in the case of Yosh Han, it’s entirely accurate. She has been a respected part of the scent creation business for decades, she favours artistic collaborations, fights for the decolonisation of the industry, and opens doors for those with different perspectives. And, when she’s not sharing her expertise as a nose, she’s navigating the world by boat, drawing inspiration from landscapes and experiences beyond her home in LA. 

“I think my original success was that I never played by the Eurocentric rules,” Yosh tells us. “I was a pioneer, non-French, Asian-American female, self-taught perfumer, and spiritual – which added this esoteric element to my perfuming. I think that’s how I’ve helped to pave the way, so that people like Amniens can be here.”

"Their olfactive aesthetic is artful and modern, as is the visual narrative of each scent."

So, how does Yosh fit within the Amniens sphere? “Working with Jonas [the founder of Amniens] has been great because he is not from the industry, which means he brings a different perspective and don’t have to play by the rules. It’s refreshing – he is conscious and progressive, and his scent profiles are so different. His olfactive aesthetic is artful and modern, as is the visual narrative of each scent – imaginative, provocative and moody. I love his outlook and the way he want the fragrances to make people feel.”

Honing in on this idea of inciting a feeling, she says, “as a facilitator and a translator, it’s been interesting to get to the core of the emotions Amniens aims to evoke. This is a brand with high emotional intelligence – even the base oil has a luxurious quality that makes you feel. Every aspect helps you access something special.”  

Here, Yosh talks in more detail about the development of scent, her role in the evolution of the industry and why she thinks now is the perfect time for a new era.

Thinking outside the box

At Amniens, there’s no preconceived notions of what a scent should be; though they are very well researched, hence very aware of what ‘the box’ is. What’s cool about that is it leads to something else entirely: Amniens is not in the aromatherapy box, nor is it in perfumery; it’s a wellness brand, but it’s a new type that addresses emotional wellness through scent, in a luxurious and functional way.

Scent allows people to tap into their physical body, bringing about a visceral response; but it also goes beyond that. Aromas have the ability to transport and transform us – I call this ‘transaromation’. It’s scientifically proven that our ability to smell is connected to our memories, and the way scent travels through our brain triggers emotional responses, which is fascinating.

Through my work, I also love being able to create something tangible from the intangible, tapping into the spiritual realm. Incense and scent was originally a way to communicate with the gods –  in Latin, ‘perfumum’ means ‘up in smoke’. When we work with plant medicine, we know that scent is emitted as a plant withers; it’s their last offering, so to speak. So, when we work with botanicals, we’re literally capturing their true essence. 

Exciting advances in the industry 

The market is ready for a new wave and a reframed cultural lens. Historically, it has been ‘Frenchified’ on a global scale – they say Grasse is the epicentre of modern perfumery – despite the fact that a lot of what the industry does has direct roots in Middle Eastern, North African and Asian concepts. 

Exposure to other influences is critical for both the industry and the creative process of those within it. It’s obvious when someone has drunk the Kool-Aid and churns out products that are formulaic. The echo chamber is pretty loud in the industry – partly because many companies are driven by what sells, and without educating the consumer to develop their own sense of smell aesthetic, many brands end up copying each other. 

I love the new technology coming out for the scent industry, which speaks to this. There’s AR/VR equipment and AI technology, which helps perfumers formulate, as well as helping people to choose their own scents. Bio-tech has entered the chat, so to speak, and we’re seeing more research and development on the front-end to create new scent molecules. It’s a really exciting time.

Where art meets scent

I love the experience of creating with other talented minds, especially non-industry artists. Usually, their expectations are out-of-the-bottle, and that really allows an atmosphere of unique outcome. Sometimes, the scent revolves around a particular note, but often, it’s a mood or purpose that’s the driving factor. I’ve always viewed the olfactive notes as colours, so I’ve often been the translator for artists to bring their visions to life. 

An art installation or project is the perfect place to incorporate scent, because it’s multi-sensorial – and because scent is invisible rather than tactile, it triggers emotions and memories within the given space. What I love about Amniens is that they’ve translated these ideas into scented oils, creating an intimate experience that aligns more with the art world than the scent world.

Amniens’ artwork reflects this, too – it’s a visual framework for the scents and a key part of the storytelling. That’s what makes the brand even more special, because beyond the scent, you’re able to explore further through the watercolours and words. When you apply each Amniens oil, it takes you to a specific place. It’s been wonderful for me to experience all of that with them.